The Spacklehoss Don't Do It Yourself Squire '51 Pickguard - Page 4 Routing the Pickguard An IMPORTANT note about about routers and router bits. The router bits I use here are 1/2" bits. They work, but they are not optimal. On my next time around, I will try 3/8" bits. When I first started doing this, I thought that 1/2" bits would be small enough and so I purchased 1/2" bits. However, router bits are expensive! Like $20 each! So, I haven't got around to getting new 3/8" bits. If you haven't purchased your router bits yet, get 3/8" ones. Make sure they are CARBIDE bits. You will definitely need a 3/8" or possibly smaller straight bit to route the neck pick up hole.
And at this point, let me remind you that Spacklehoss.com is not responsible for any damage you do to yourself, your Jet-Ski, your Members Only Jacket, or your any of your distant cousins. We are just not responsible! Routers spin very, very fast and can be very, very dangerous. Please read all instruction manuals and safety instructions that came with your router. And for Pete's sake, don't use a router if you have never used one before. Get a quick lesson from someone who has. ROUTERS WILL MESS YOU UP! Like to the point of NEVER playing guitar again. So please, take it slow, and be very careful.
Load your router with the proper bit and adjust it to the proper cut. You can use the scrap piece of blank that you used while getting the counter sinking depth right to test on. Make a test block similar to the one below. Note, it would have been easier to screw the block from the top side of the test template, just like the real template. It seemed like the right thing to do at the time. And just like the template, nothing can protrude on the top surface of the test template.
Secure your test block in a firm vice and screw a scrap piece of countersinked blank to the top side. MAKE SURE THAT THE ROUTER BIT WILL NOT HIT THE VICE AS YOU MAKE YOUR PASSES WITH THE ROUTER! Test your cuts. Always cut going the opposite direction of the blade rotation. You want the blade to cut into the stock not ride along it. READ YOUR ROUTER'S MANUAL!
The 45 bit should stop just before cutting into the template. The cut to the middle left is too deep. Try the straight bit also to make sure it's working right. Next clamp your template securely in the vice.
First rule of Vice Club: Make sure that the router bit will not hit the vice as you make your passes with the router. Second rule of Vice Club: MAKE SURE THAT THE ROUTER BIT WILL NOT HIT THE VICE AS YOU MAKE YOUR PASSES WITH THE ROUTER! Although I did not do it here, I have come to think that a this point you should do a straight bit router cut all the way around the template. Instead I did the 45 cuts first then the straight cuts for the neck and control notch. I suspect that a straight cut all the way around will make the 45 cut easier by removing more stock so that the 45 does not need to remove it all. And this should also make the final 45 bevel cut smoother. So, next go once around the entire template with the straight bit (no photo). Next, cut your 45's. Be careful around the horns, it can get wobbly out there on the ends. Also use caution around transitions to the neck and control notches. You must not come around the template corners at the neck and control notches with the 45 bit. It will mess everything up. Remember, practice makes perfect. You should always try things out on scraps to get a feel for it.
Details:
The cuts are clean. That's just paper hanging over the edge. IMPORTANT! You will most likely need to sand things a little bit here and there to make it fit on the guitar perfectly. Go slow and sand by hand with blocks and dowels. Sanding machines and dremel tools will go too fast and mess up your pickguard. Make sure it fits on the guitar and all the screw holes line up before tearing off the protective paper or plastic sheet. If you are perfectionist, you can even polish the edges. Ugh. Too much work for me. Ding! Almost done! Next: Installation and Final Thoughts.
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